Day 43, Sunday August 5, 2012

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Sunday August 5th

We left Beautiful Boston island and headed North towards Fox point. Stopping along the way to collect water at stream located the day before on my gps. It was an amazing steep beach with giant round boulders and river rocks. We climbed up over boulders and huge drift logs to find the stream and mini water fall that poured out of the Forrest. After collecting several liters of tea colored water we both braved the ice cream headache and rinsed out our hair in the small pool made by the stream. Then back to climbing over giant logs and boulders and down to our kayaks. We launched again heading towards Cape Fox and beyond. The seas around the Dixon entrance were calm and although we had to fight a current most of the day we slowly worked our way North. It was not boring paddling because of the dynamic scenery and gill netters every ¼ mile to pass. We stopped at Tree Bluff light house for a break. This was a cool spot that could be campable, even old building still in place, but it is very exposed to the West, so we pushed on and on despite being tired, to the Delong islands. A fisherman told Traci tomorrow will be even nicer weather – of course he was right. Fishermen know weather, they have to. We landed on the beautiful sand beach!

Amazing moments –

 The colors of the bonfire on Delong island.  Glowing embers orange, on the white sand beach, as the water was an oily, gun metal grey and the sky turned dark with a glowing pink horizon.

Dolphin escort in the fog as we left Blundon harbor early in the morning. The sound of the large pod as they swam and then turned to pass near us….. Amazing!

Fishing out near the navigation buoy off of Tree Point amongst all of the feeding birds as humpback whales bubble net fished all around me.

The Eagle clutching a seabird in its talons as it squawked its death words……

The absolute stillness and grace of a Big Grizzly bear as it approached our tent in the tree line on Broken island.


Chocolate Bar count: lost

Paddling the entire BC coastline!

Mile 786, DeLong Islands

Conditions: cool grey morning, clear afternoon, low/mid 60s; barometer steady at 1019

We took a lazy, leisurely approach to the start of the day. Well, not exactly lazy, but while we didn’t rush, we didn’t dawdle either. Got a good breakfast of oatmeal, did the gear schlepping, and got off the beach. Then Tracy realized her GPS batteries were dead, so I just drifted gently in the cove while I waited. Quiet. And then there was a head, right at the junction of my kayak and my paddle held perpendicular across my lap. Good morning seal! My thinking brain was torn between the desire to reach out and touch the nose (that close!), or to try for the camera. The rest of me merely stayed still, in the moment, and experienced the connection with the seal. After a moment, she slipped under my boat and popped up several yards away on the other side.

Tracy got her batteries set, and we paddled over to Sitkan Island where her GPS showed a stream. Yes indeed, right on target. We filled our bags with the tea-coloured water – should be enough to get us to Ketchikan. We got back into our kayaks, with no particular destination in mind, but several options open to us. Two miles later we crossed the border into Alaska/USA. We have paddled the entire coast of British Columbia!

When we reached Nakat Bay, the last opening before Cape Fox, Tracy set up her fishing operation. We could see a few other boats fishing in the distance around us. We soon encountered red algae, which flowed around us the entire width of the bay. At some points it was as thick and orange as Campbell’s Tomato Soup (condensed). It would thicken and thin, in striated layers, but never completely disappeared.

The sky was still and grey, with a light early mist – heavy mist – giving way to lighter greys. We passed between Cape Fox and Fox Island. More fishing boats appeared, and as we rounded the cape they were lined up every quarter mile as far as the eye could see. Gill netters.

We ate a quick bite, and because the conditions were so mild we took advantage of that and kept going. More red algae out here, and incredibly it was even thicker and brighter than in Nakat Bay. At Tree Point, the first US lighthouse (manned until the 1970’s) we spotted a small beach just south of the light. We pulled into a steep, cobbled beach, which turned out to hold the buildings and winch for the old lighthouse crew. More tomato soup sea and a very steep beach, so we didn’t stay long.

The wind was still mild – switching/variable from light NW to W, supposedly eventually to S. We thought it best to clear Dixon Entrance while the conditions were good, so back into the kayaks. Very tired, we ended up making it to the DeLong Islands, at the north end of Foggy Bay. This area was supposed to have some good camping, and we found a superb white sand beach still in the sun. Paradise, after a lovely day! We came ashore, and like good sea nymphs stripped nekkid in the sun. Glorious. Eagles in the trees, mink on the shore, sand above high tide – we will take a rest day here. And I thought I wouldn’t see the sun again this trip.

GoPro video by TracyL
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