Friday July 2oth
We slept on this beautiful beach on Brown island. Just lots of bird sounds, some familiar eagles and crows, other foreign sounds. Quite a cacophony. No large animal noises, except one that sounds like a cat – Perhaps a bobcat? I don’t think so. Last night, in Skull Cove right after we went to bed in the cabin a large animal passed by outside. You hear everything.
The seas are so calm this morning, no wind, cloudy skies, no rain just the gentle lapping of the waves on the algae covered rocks and the occasional far off boom of ocean swell on the boulders to the West of us. We are having a relaxed morning. Coffee, oatmeal, and beach combing in the rocks at low tide. We will leave as the tide allows and head north towards the Addenbrooke light house and 27 miles away to Kwakime point. Should be some good camping there islands, beaches etc. We love islands.
The algae and intertidal life on the rocks here on Brown Island is amazing. You could fill an entire intertidal identification book with the creatures I saw this morning. I took many pictures. A pod of Pacific White sided dolphins came by as well just offshore and we were buzzed by a float plane this morning. Hah… they missed the naked lady show from yesterday afternoon. This beach has abalone, if we could just stay here another day I would dive for them. As it is I am taking a shell souvenir.
Paddled 27 miles, today total mileage 470. The seas around the point were about 3 feet, since we hugged the shore we had some good bounce back to work and ride, then as we rounded the point into Fitzhugh sound the waves diminished. This was a day of whale sightings. Grey Whales at the point, just as we entered Fitzhugh sound. Then as we travelled up the Sound we saw a lone sleek Minke whale and then later in the afternoon around a dozen humpback whales feeding. One of the whales had white around the edges of his fluke, otherwise it was all black, just beautiful. Streamlined graceful whales. They really do make the Grey whales look frumpy.
Whale count for today: 4-6 Grey whales – as we entered the Sound. 1 Minke Whale and around 12 Humpback whales.
The Greys seemed to be in close groups of 2, side by side feeding just off the rock faces. The lone Minke Whale was rounding up fish out in the open. Same for the humpback whales bubble net feeding across the sound.
Mile 470, Islets south of Kawkume Pt.
Conditions: overcast, grey light drizzle, 50F, barometer 1016
Hung out on a beautiful sunny morning on Brown Island. What a gem. Tide was waaaaay out and we decided we had to wait for nature’s elevator. Oh darn.T2 went beach combing while I checked out rocks, shells, and flowers. Got everything gloriously dry – a sadly temporary state of affairs. Leisurely start, waiting for the tide to come up over the rocks to our sandy beach. A small float-plane flew directly overhead, very low. Sorry, you missed the naked middle-aged lady show; that was yesterday. Lots of different bird sounds on this island, plus something that sounded like a bird version of a cat. Curious what that might be, but have no idea.
Anyway, on around Kelp Head. Moderate swells, nothing too exciting. My right arm felt like it was asleep, I had to keep shaking it out. This has happened two other times, and seems to go away after an hour or so of paddling. Very annoying. North of Kelp Head we encountered a fishing boat and some grey whales feeding. This was just the start of a day for whales. Minke (we think) off of Penrose Island. Stopped for a quick meal of Norwegian brown cheese, venison jerky, and Cadbury fruit&nut chocolate for desert, on a tiny sand beach just north of Penrose. Then on toward Addenbrooke Lighthouse. Nice looking place, but no easy access for kayaks. Only six more miles to Kwakume, so onward ho. And a good thing too – Minke? Humpback? feeding everywhere from about two miles north of the lighthouse all the way to Kwakume. Beautiful whales – black/dark, sleek, and very active. Lots of fin slapping to stun fish. Stunning flukes – dark with a white spot on either fin.
Found the islands late in the day, around 7pm (thanks to that late start… but worth it!). Reasonably easy access, almost (not quite) level camp spot in the moss. Nice and remote from land – this is prime bear country.