Friday July 13th.
Today was a beautiful day of kayaking through the Broughton islands starting at Lagoon Cove. Our wonderful host Jean sent me off with fresh lettuce from her garden wrapped in a rhubarb leaf, a bag of cooked prawns, 2 Walla Walla sweet onions, parsley and chives. I stored them on my boat and Traci and I enjoyed the prawns wrapped in lettuce leaves 2 hours later while sitting on a white shell midden beach at Ka shakes. Today, we did not have to fight currents and it was a beautiful sunny day as we paddled through so many amazingly picturesque islands. We stopped again at Mamallilacula an abandoned native village to take in the scene and ponder the past. It is a mystical place where you get the idea the Ravens know all. Then we continued on. We decided to push on into Joe’s cove to find this dock that Pat told us about for camping on. About 26 miles of paddling today. Tired and in need of food we arrive at Joes cove to see a kayak tender unloading kayaks – A bad sign – we have not seen any kayakers in days. We hope they are not heading our direction and continue on in search of this dock. We paddled on down in to Joe’s cove, away from the beautiful islets around Bronswick island – fishing and kayaking paradise! (It was difficult to just pass it all.)
Finally, we see the dock and it is not what we imagined. It is really old, barely floating and occupied with a sail boat tied up to it and a nice lady kayaking nearby. So much for privacy. We said hello and asked if this was the dock. Yes it was. So began a very nice evening of visiting with Colleen and Lauren from Saltspring island. They come here every year and know Jean, Bob and Pat from Lagoon Cove. We asked if we could tie up and eat. Traci made a double batch of mashed potatoes and I ate everything I could get my hands on. We decided to camp on this old dock and visited with our new dock hosts. Colleen and Lauren helped us go over our charts and books and plot out the course for the morning. It turned out to be a very, very, nice evening with new friends floating up and down in Joes Cove on a dock. Snug and safe and set up to head up the coast at first light. My only regret is that I was not able to fish in the Broughtons. It was amazing! I could have stayed and camped and fished for days! A true kayak fishing paradise we passed by in 1 long afternoon.
Tomorrow: 4:00 am wake up so we can try to paddle up the coast without wind in calm seas – we will be exposed to the Pacific Ocean. The forecast is calling for winds.
Total miles: 363, Joe’s Cove, Eden Island
Conditions: mid to high 60s, barometer 1018
What great benefactors at Lagoon Cove. Pat gave us a dated, but still useful cruising guide, and Jean gave us a big bag of prawns and some fresh produce from her garden. Delicious, and it’s been far too long since I’ve had fresh greens! We set out, and for a change had either a slight push, or neutral waters for the entire day. Woot! We stopped at two abandoned villages with shell middens, that were sweetly melancholic. Such sad history, but so beautiful. The first was Karlukwees, the second Mamalilaculla. It was a beautiful mild day, sunny mostly calm, and such lovely little islands and islets in the Broughton archipelago. Pat had recommended a floating dock at Joes Cove, so with the good weather we made the push. Upon arrival, deep in the cove, we found a tiny, dilapidated dock with a small sailboat moored. Yikes, this was it? After passing a slew of kayaker’s paradise islands just a few miles back? We pulled up to the dock and introduced ourselves to Colleen and Lauren. Hungry, we made a meal of mashed potatoes, fresh salad and onions, and some dried fruit. Colleen made us sandwiches from fresh caught crab which we gladly accepted. Suddenly the dock didn’t look so bad after all, and here we will spend the night.
[Personal note: company on a remote dock makes hygiene awkward. I borrowed T2’s boat for a quick shore escape to take care of some necessary business. By the time we had reached the dock after a long days paddle, I was in dire need!]
[Evening note: T2 woke me in the middle of the night – with some trepidation I might add! The sky was clear and the stars were gloriously bright, echoed in the sea by some of the most brilliant bio-luminescence I have ever seen. Simply amazing].